Recent weather: sunny and high 60s in the morning, daily afternoon showers, cold evenings; they say you can experience all four seasons in one day in Quito.
Recent reads: John
I arrived in Quito on Saturday night. At about 10pm the power went out on the whole block and stayed out for 12+ hours which is fairly unusual, even for South America. The power went out 2 other nights while in Quito but was back on within a couple of hours. On Sunday, the neighborhood was still very quiet, so we ventured just outside Quito to the equator. One of the main tourist attractions in Quito is El Mitad de Mundo (Middle of the World), right on the equator where the latitude is 0'0'0'. There is a whole park with various shops, restaurants, and other tourist traps along with a huge monument constructed to commemorate the coordinates.
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| Latitude 0'0'0'...Lies |
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| In both hemispheres simultaneously! |
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| Traditional dancing |
But 18 years ago, advanced US GPS satellites determined that the actual location of 0'0'0' was 240 meters northeast of the monument. Here, at the real middle of the world, there is a far more interesting museum where they do a few experiments on the equator. For example, you can attempt to balance an egg on the head of nail as it should be easier to do at the equator. They also used water demonstrations to show the different centrifugal forces. At the equator water flows start down; in the northern hemisphere a few feet from the equatorial line it flows counterclockwise, and in the southern hemisphere it flows clockwise. After visiting both locations, I found it hard to believe that the wrong location is still so widely promoted and most visitors aren't even aware or told that a more exact location exists.
On Monday I was able to watch the changing of the guards at the presidential palace. It was a 15 minute production with marching, music and even the president, Rafael Correa, came out on the balcony to wave to me.
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| Raising of the flag with Rafa out on the balcony. |
The following day I visited the presidential palace. The president works at the palace but, unlike previous presidents, Rafa doesn't live at the palace. He claims it's because he believes the palace belongs to the people and he isn't a king, fit to be living in a palace. I speculate the real reason is that he doesn't want to be assassinated there like some of his predecessors. Rafa wasn't in when I visited, but it was still great to see the offices where they work, the balcony that overlooks the whole plaza, and the all the gifts visitors have brought to the palace.
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| It says "visitor" but it really means VIP. |
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| Saluting the flag |
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| Where they do work. |
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| The balcony overlooking the plaza where the president watches the changing of the guards ceremony. |
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| View of the plaza from the balcony |
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| Dining room |
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| Gifts from Vladimir Puton. He never got me anything. |
I visited quite a few churches in old town Quito as well. El Monestario del San Francisco was a beautiful sight. Many of the biblical paintings even have simple touches of real gold like on Christ's collar or the cuff of his sleeves done in a gold leaf pattern. The altar was beyond stunning and the intricate sculptures and carvings were amazing. A carving of Christ's crucifixion even has real blood mixed with the paint to make the carving more creepy-I mean realistic.
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| I just picture the architect drawing up plans thinking, "it needs something more..." |
La Compania de Jesus was another amazing church. This wealthy Jesuit church once owned much of downtown Quito and the church itself proves it. Much of the church is covered in 24-carrot gold including doors, windows, and altars. There is enough gold inside the church to pay the debt of Ecuador and then some! But, of course, that will never happen because the church is a protected heritage site.
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| The whole door is covered in intricate leaf patterns made of 24 carrot gold. |
Then, I took a jaunt to Mindo, a city in the cloud forest just 2 hours from Quito. The first day there, we walked 20+km/12+miles to view 2 beautiful waterfalls and I took a well-deserved swim.
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| Taking the cable car. |
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| A little repelling was involved. |
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| Pretty jungle-y |
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| Worth it! |
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| A little rickety but it held... |
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| Then we treated ourselves to a treat: quinoa pudding with strawberry-mint and passionfruit-basil ice cream! |
The following day we visited a mariposeria, butterfly garden. I didn't expect much from the garden as I am not exactly a butterfly expert but I was blown away by how spectacular it was! There were lots of pupas and larvae with varying colors and patterns as camouflage. I saw an amazing array of butterflies including the owl butterfly. Nature is awesome!
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| The pupas hanging out and one newbie owl butterfly that just hatched today. |
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| All the different pupas with amazing camouflage capabilities! |
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| Looks like a leaf, but it's not! |
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| Eye of the butterfly |
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| I am the butterfly whisperer! |
I had gotten mixed reviews about Quito but I very much enjoyed my time here! That being said, the harsh reality is that I have had more instances in Quito where I felt unsafe than other city I've visited, South American or other otherwise. I will spare you the details, but let's just say I was on the receiving end of several attempted muggings in varying settings and with varying MOs. Fortunately, none were life-threatening and nothing of mine was stolen. It's been a strong reminder to listen to my instincts and remain vigilant especially as I come upon the end of my travels. Speaking of the end of my travels, I have officially booked my flight to Wisconsin for November 12th!
Tomorrow I head to Colombia, my last country!
